#1 - 12TH DECEMBER
Me and Mika visited Copenhagen in October, one that’s been on the list for a while. We found all the essential Danish expectations, cycling, pastries, hygge - plus lots more fun and introspection we navigated this beautiful city.
We arrived early on Thursday. The city was cast in an Autumnal hue, blessed by the unobstructed October sun. The former meat packing district turned hipster playground in Vesterbro provided first impressions of landscape and cuisine. A huge pork sandwich among uniformly white-blue buildings.
Cyclists populate the streets in waves of pelotons. There is a quietness that feels out of step with a Thursday morning. People crowd around the various bakeries in sight. Contrary to the usual feeling of heightened awareness when in a new city, it felt more like arriving at a wellness retreat. Sandwich finished and off to explore.
What was most striking as we meandered through the city from west to east was its modesty. I came expecting the grandeur and historical centres common in much of Europe, instead the city looked like many of the towns here in Merseyside. Small, densely populated flats overlook post-industrial centres. Shops and bars surround sparse concrete squares. Wide boulevards cut through the middle of neighbourhoods.
It feels vastly different. Walking and cycling around is relaxing, quiet, tranquil. The mood is laid back. The air is fresh. Streets uncongested. Pavements clean and well maintained. I’m seeing this through the lens of a foreigner, maybe the reality is not so perfect. Either way, they’re doing something right.
One night we visited Madglad for communal dining, a cultural staple in Denmark. There’s one choice of main, lasagne for us. And then salad, a rainbow of leaves, dips and other healthy things. Limited choice translates to a reasonable price, the dining hall reminds me of school – colourful, benches, everyone had trays. After we went way out of town to a Salsa club. I went to one in Granada and was captivated. Movements of such beauty and grace. We were bad, but improved with every song. I hope to do more.
Next morning was the eagerly anticipated trip to Grød, or “porridge”. A hearty bowl fuelled our walk through Freetown Christiana, the colourful, overgrown commune set in the middle of the city. It reminds me that we can choose what our environment looks like, and for the most part it seems we have delegated that choice to people who really like grey.
Beyond Christianshaven a waterfront café, we have coffees and I jump in the river. Cold but invigorating. A flea market is nearby with sleek but expensive mid-century furniture, although I did get to add to my improving collection of mugs from far-away places. We found a pair of bikes and rode back to the city, the crisp afternoon sun peering between clouds as we glide across the flat roads. I like this place, I thought.
